RED-STAR WARS, The
Umpire Strikes Back!
INTRODUCTION
This is Part 2, the compare & contrast construction review for
the ACE Tiran 4/5 (Ti-67) and the PST T-54 kits in 1/72 scale.
Part 1, an
in-the-box preview, covers the parts on the sprue, instructions and general
accuracy. In constructing and adding extra detail I found quite a bit of
variation in minor details in the real Ti-67 and the T-54 tanks. The T-54 was
built over a number of years and the Ti-67 was apparently produced from a
number of generations of T-54’s and T-55’s, basically what was captured from
Egypt and Syria. My models were built with a compilation of the common
details from a half a dozen reference vehicles.
ASSEMBLING THE CHASSIS PST
T-54/55 Hull & Suspension a) The assembly of the hull bottom plate, left and right sides and rear
plate went smooth after easy clean-up. Be careful snipping off the sprue and
cleaning the nubs. Detail is sharp and fine. The PST hull has an open
driver’s hatch perfect for a MIG Products Russian tank crewman, or a little
bit of a scratchbuilt interior if you leave it open with no figure. b)
The roadwheels are molded well with no need for major sanding to make
them true (round). Oddly, PST’s inside roadwheels are not molded with a
Spiderweb pattern like the outside wheels but are plain with holes halfway
around (perhaps in hopes that no one will look at the bottom of the tank?). c)
The sprocket is molded well except for a major problem. When assembled
according to the guide notches the teeth for the two sprockets are offset from
each other. This means that to glue the track links around the sprocket we
have to snip off a few more sprocket teeth, and the rear sprocket will need a
few teeth added. This is not good. d)
There are two engine decks offered in the kit, one for the T-54 and
another engine deck for the T-55. The instructions tell us to remove ½-mm off
each side of the engine deck to allow it to fit correctly. I noted a nice
side with good bolt detail that seemed a shame to cut off so the engine deck
was cut in the middle. As fate would have it, a reference photo was later
found showing an engine deck without the edge of bolts! This could be an
error on PST’s part or just one of many production variations in the T-54/55
series. Overall I am not overly concerned in this case.
f)
The individual torsion bar arms are well molded and cleaned up easily.
And the distance between the wheels once assembled appears correct.
g)
The torsion bars assembled easily and true on the hull. With a little
trimming of I was able to alter the position of the torsion bar arms so the
wheels could reflect rolling terrain. The wheels were glued onto the arms and
carefully lined up with a straight edge.
h)
The sides and bottom plates are detailed and will display well if you
chose to display a partly dismantled or destroyed & overturned tank. I have
not yet found any good photos of the sides (minus the wheels) and bottom plate
so I cannot comment as to accuracy of either the PST or ACE details in these
areas. In the photos below of the two hulls (the PST on top) we can see the
difference between the two. i) My method for dealing with the individual track links around the idler
and sprockets was to glue the track links on first and then attach the idler
and sprocket, aligning them up with the roadwheels. The lengths of tracks
were added later after painting. The track lengths were carefully bent to
conform to the articulated roadwheels, and to sag realistically on the top
rung. Rather than emulating my method, instead construct the lower T-55 hull
including the wheels and tracks before attaching the hull top and
turret. This will allow us to attach the tracks without interference by the
fenders and to better get them all straight! [I should have followed
Chaltry’s advice on this!] j)
The driver’s periscopes for both kits are acceptable but a little
simplified. The real periscopes on T-54/55’s appear to raise and lower with a
sheet metal cover. For both kits, a thin strip of aluminum was added to
represent the sheet metal cover. To represent the periscope lenses I used, on
both models, strips of exposed 35-mm film. The cut up camera film can be cut
with sharp angles and edges, is shiny and dark like the real glass periscope.
I feel it looks much better than trying to paint them in. k)
Rotate the fuel cell part C14 180 degrees from what the
instructions direct us to do. This is the second large fuel cell from the
front. l) Switch part A6 with part A22 when assembling. m) On both models adding the fuel lines, with fine copper wire, for the
fender fuel cells add a l found that teabag string, coated with white glue,
make good in-scale cables.
ACE Suspension & hull a)
ACE’s T-55 hull required much sanding, filing and filling with model
putty. The model putty I had at the time was white so it unfortunately does
not show up well in the photos against the white styrene ACE used. With
continuous test fitting between filing I was able to achieve a reasonable,
though far from perfect fit of the sides, bottom, rear plate, and top hull
piece. The large wheels and hanging tracks will cover much of any rough
detail. I have not yet found any good photos of the sides (minus wheels) and
bottom plate so I cannot comment as to accuracy of either the PST or ACE
details in these areas. b) The torsion bars need some cleaning up of flash. Do this while still
on the sprue to keep from handling these small pieces in big fingers. In
fact, most clean-up of flash and seams on most all parts can be cleaned up
while still on the sprue. The instructions tell us to move the idler arms for
correct placement. The roughness of the suspension holes (visible in the
photo below) makes this a bit difficult to do accurately. Do it by eye as
best you can. c)
The roadwheels had a lot of flash and are the tires are not flat. I
had moderate success gluing the ACE roadwheels onto toothpicks with white (Elmer’s
or School) glue, rotating them slowly on an electric drill against a
sanding stick. After this it was not hard to finish them true by hand. At
least ACE gives the correct Starfish shape to both the inside and outside
roadwheels. d) The roadwheels, idler & sprocket and the tracks of the ACE model were
handled the same way as with the PST T-54 described above.
e)
The tracks were the most difficult aspect of assembly of both kits.
The tracks of my T-55’s were installed after full construction and painting.
I think this was a mistake and recommend the method Doug Chaltry used and
describes in the construction of his ACE T-55.
f) Extra detailing such as grab handles, latches and gear attachment
points were produced from fine wire and added before painting, on both turrets
where appropriate based on reference photos.
g)
From the in-progress photos it is evident that I traded some parts
between kits (one reason for this was that the parts would show up better in
the photos).
h)
Stowage for the Ti-67’s turret and hull bins was made from pieces of
plastic and covered in a tarp simulated from glue coated tissue.
i)
Both models come with roof mounted machine guns that can use detailing.
j)
The fabric gun mantlet cover of the T-55 served as a weather barrier
for the turret interior. Glue soaked tissue paper may be used to make the
mantlet more like realistic, wrinkled cloth, and to blend it into the hull. Go enjoy yourself. TANK
BATTLES OF THE MID-EAST WARS (2), Steven Zaloga,
Concord Publications (1998). Good photo reference covering a plethora of
Israeli and Arab AFV’s including the T-55 and Ti-67. AFV
Modeler Issue 9, March April 2003. A British
bi-monthly AFV modeling magazine. Great Photo essay on a T-55 on display,
including a number of interior pictures. AFV
Modeler Issue 10, May/June 2003. Wonderful
article on building Tamiya’s T-55 and with in-depth coverage of painting and
weathering techniques.
Weathering with the Salt Technique: Fine Scale Modeler
magazine, July 2003.
http://smallscaleafv.web3.cz/ANG/index1.html Gary Zimmer’s PST T-55 review.
http://www.ontheway.us/reviews/ACE/T-55%20preview.htm Doug
Chaltry’s in the box preview of the ACE T-55 model.
http://www.ontheway.us/reviews/ACE/T-55%20review.htm
Construction article on the ACE T-55.
http://www.ontheway.us/articles/limited-run.htm Doug
Chaltry’s discussion on Limited Run kits.
http://www.kithobbyist.com/AFVInteriors/t54/t54a.html Superb article on
the T-54 interior.
http://www.jed.simonides.org/tanks/tango-numbers-su/t-55_series/t55-series.html
Info and photos of T-54 & T-55 tanks.
http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/row/t54tank.htm
http://www.xs4all.nl/~gurth/afv/t55/index.html T-55 and T-55 Enigma at
Bovington, England.
http://www.smallafv.nn.ru/inbox/ace_tiran.html Russian language on the
ACE Ti-67 model.
The T-54/55 in 1/72 scale, Part
2
A
Compare and Contrast of the
ACE Ti-67 (T-55) kit and the PST T-54 kit
BUILDING THE
TURRET
PST Turret
1)
The fit of the turret with the bottom turret plate went well.
2)
I find the commander’s and loader’s hatches to not be properly shaped.
The hatch openings should be opened wider though this poses a problem in that
the commander’s hatch is too small and could use rebuilding. When compared to
ACE’s cupola’s (which is pretty good and accurate) we can see how much PST is
undersized. I am generally pretty reluctant to say an item is “wrong” but
based on all the vehicle photos I have checked out (several dozen) I have not
seen any T-55 hatches hat look like this.
3)
The turret lift hooks are not like ones I’ve seen in photos.
4)
The grab handles and the attachment loops on the turret sides were
simulated with fine wire.
5)
The two PST 100-mm gun barrels included in the kit (one with and one
without a bore evacuator) look about right and the molding seen was not
difficult to clean-up. Doug Chaltry feels the PST gun barrels to be a bit too
tapered and prefers the ACE barrel. ARMO makes a well-done turned-aluminum
replacement barrel that appears based on the PST barrel.
6) If you recall in
Part 1. it was pointed out that the turret ring for the
PST turret was smaller than the ACE turret. Here is where the significance of
that comes in. While the smaller ring is less accurate compared to the real
vehicle, what is more critical is that the turret ring is also placed too
far forward on the hull. What this means is that when rotated 90 degrees
the turret will not maintain a correct overhang over the fenders. Visible in
the overhead-photo below of the two kits, the front of the PST turret will not
overhang enough, and the turret rear will overhang out too far. In the photo
below you’ll note that the left-side armor fillet (that semicircular piece on
the fender and under the turret side) is almost totally exposed when it should
be mostly covered over by the turret (as on the ACE kit).
Fixes for this problem might be:
I.
Don’t do anything and glue the turret facing forward.
II. Don’t do anything and just leave everything like it is and just enjoy
yourself.
III. Use the ACE turret and make the corresponding hole in the hull roof
larger.
IV.
Make the turret ring larger with a plastic or copper tube mounted in
the center of the turret
bottom, and make a correspondingly large hole in the
hull roof further back.
ACE Turret
a)
The turret bottom plate and turret top needed quite a bit of sanding
and trimming to get a good fit into the upper part of the turret. Again: test
fit, trim, and test fit again until its proper. Unlike the PST turret, the
ACE turret ring appears the correct size and location. In the photo
above it
appears in the correct position when rotated.
b)
I thought the ACE turret sat too high over the hull so I shaved and
sanded off the raised ring around the top of the hull. See the scan of
the hulls in Part 1.
c)
The ACE cupolas appear accurate and in scale. They may need a little
filler.
d)
The turret lift hooks appear accurate.
e)
The 100-mm gun barrel in the T-55 kit is larger and was more difficult
to clean up round. The ACE kit’s 105-mm gun in the T-67 appears too thick and
difficult to clean-up and was replaced with a 105-mm gun barrel stolen from a
Hasegawa M1 Abrams kit (with the addition of a short aluminum tube on the end
to correct the muzzle).
PAINTING & MARKINGS
For the T-54 I modeled as an Egyptian AFV circa 1967.
Though I could find dozen or more good photos of Syrian T-55’s, I found one
good photo of an Egyptian tank and this one had no visible markings. It is
therefore finished in sand and brown colors in a pattern displayed in Osprey’s
book by Steven Zaloga. None of the PST kit decals were used.
The ACE Ti-67 was finished in Model Master Israeli
sand-gray lightened with cream color (this Israeli color actually appears more
olive than sand or gray). The ACE decals unfortunately broke up into little
pieces as I attempted to slide them off the wet paper, an unfortunate
manufacturer’s defect by ICM who makes ACE’s decals. ACE replaced my decals
though I ended up using decals from my spares box to replace those destroyed
before ACE could get me knew ones. [Several clear-coating products are
designed to save old or defective decals.]
In the photo below of the PST T-54 is an example of the
Salt Technique that was used as part of the weathered desert finish of my
Egyptian T-55. A similar technique was used on the Israeli Ti-67. The
Egyptian T-54 represents a Soviet tank re-painted in desert color once
received by the Egyptians. The vehicle was first painted in its factory coat
of paint: a Soviet olive green in this case. To represent chipping down to
the bare metal some areas were painted in dark gray. After the paint has
dried well, wet the areas you would expect excess wear and sprinkle on table
salt. Scrape the salt off or add more depending on the amount of wear you
wish. After applying the final coats of paint simply brush or nick off the
salt grains leaving the paint below exposed. After this continue with the
markings and weathering.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
Both ACE and PST built
into handsome and satisfying models that look like T-55’s. Both have their
problems that for me are offset by their good aspects. As a few have already
discovered, probably the best T-55 model in 1/72 will come from an
amalgamation of both kits: The ACE turret, cupolas and lift hooks, with the
PST hull, storage boxes, gun barrel, wheels and tracks. Overall I had a great
time with both kits. With the ACE model in particular I felt that I really
tested my scratchbuilding skills and produced a model I can call “mine”. This
is a feeling more satisfying than just slapping together a near perfect Revell
kit all the time.
I have often heard that
when installing the upper run of tracks the tracks sagged and touched only the
tops of center three roadwheels. Studying action photos I have noticed that
with a fully loaded T-55 the tracks may lay across the top of all five
roadwheels.
If I had any
recommendations to the makers it would be for PST to rework the shape of their
turret and correct their cupolas. The PST model has too much potential for
further variants not to correct this.
REFERENCES